The Right Answer%26gt;
Your doing GREAT, don鈥檛 forget Water!!!! lol
Rabbits are smatter than you think, You can train him to ring a bell when he want a treat. If you take the time you can train then to walk on a leash and understand left , right or stop.Does my rabbit have a good diet?
If you read my list it will give you lots of what you can offer your rabbit.
The following was compiled by me to give more help to new rabbit owners and I exhibit standard rex, dutch, harlequins, magpies and dwarf lop rabbits, also ferrets and ferret cross European polecat hybrids, I got my first pet ferret and pet rabbit over 50+ years ago, when I was a small child.
History.
Dutch rabbits, along with the English, were the most popular pet and exhibition rabbits a position that has now been filled by the Lop breeds. Originally from Holland or Belgium, the breed is striking in its appearance with a white blaze carrying up to a point between the ears, a saddle of colour continuing right around the middle of the rabbit with a straight edge and white markings on the hind feet. Their coat should be glossy and they are a medium size rabbit weighing 2.04 -2. 26 kg (4.5 lb. 5 lb.).
Behaviour of all rabbits.
Dutch rabbits are very lively and alert and should make good pets although a prospective owner should be looking for a breeder that handles the rabbits regularly from a young age so that the rabbit is not too jumpy. Colours Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, Pale Grey and Tri Colour
By using body language rabbits can stamp their feet or with a flash of a tail they can be seen and heard by other rabbits over a long distance.
Feeding Rabbits require a high fibre with lots of low quality hay (dried grass) or straw and low protein feed to prevent digestive problems, all rabbits do better on a poor quality hay than on a better quality hay such as timothy hay. Use rabbit pellets which can be purchased from pet shops to provide all your rabbits dietary needs and along with the following. Vegetables:
Artichoke leaves and Jerrusalem leaves, stems and tubers, Asparagus, Baby Sweetcorns and full size ones, Beetroot, Broccoli (and its leaves, including purple sprouting varieties), Brussel Sprouts (leaves and sprouts), Cabbage (can sometimes cause digestive upsets), Carrots (and carrot tops), Cauliflower (and the leaves), Celeriac, Celery (and its leaves), Chicory (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Courgette ( also leaves and flowers), Cucumber ( also leaves and flowers), Curly Kale (Excerlent for winter use), Fennel, Green beans (including leaves and stems), Kohl rabi, Parsnip, Peas (including the leaves and pods), Peppers (red, green and yellow), Pumpkin ( also leaves and flowers), Radish Tops, Rocket, Romaine (and all other lettuce as this is a diretic), Spinach (only occasional), Spring Greens, Squash (e.g. Butternut, leaves and flowers), Swede (Excerlent for winter use), Turnip (only occasional), Watercress.
Herbs (often powerful tastes so may take some getting used to): Basil, Coriander, Dill, Mint (peppermint), Parsley, Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme.
Fruits (should be fed in moderation, due to sugar content): all types of fresh fruit including skin Apple, Apricot, Banana (high in potassium),Blackberries (and leaves 鈥?excellent astringent properties), Blueberries,Cherries, Grapes, Kiwi Fruit, Melon, Mango, Nectarines, Orange, Papaya, Peach, Pear, Pineapple, Plums, Strawberries, Raspberries (and leaves 鈥?excellent astringent properties), Tomatoes (not the leaves)
Wild Garden Herbs/Weeds/Flowers: Borage, Calendula, Camomile, Chickweed ( in small amounts as this is a diretic), Clover (leaves and flowers), Coltsfoot, Comfrey, Dandelion (in small amounts as this is a diretic), Goosegrass (cleavers) but may stick to coat!, Lavender, Mallow, Nettle (the type with the white flowers), Nasturtium (leaves and flowers), Shepherd's purse, Sow Thistle, Plantain, Yarrow.
Extra vitamins and salt licks are not required. Any changes in diet must be made slowly (green stuffs and prepared feeds) over a period of a couple of weeks, to avoid digestive upsets. Fresh water must be available at all times and renewed daily.
To enable your rabbit to extract as much protein, vitamins and minerals from their low quality food, they digest their food twice, these are soft, kidney shaped droppings which are covered in a small amount of mucous. These droppings are very different from the dry round droppings that you will usually see your rabbit passing. Rabbits are herbivorous and wild rabbits will spend most of their lives grazing on grass, foliage, flowers and roots
Rabbits living indoor will drink more water than rabbits living out of doors because of the dryer atmosphere
Housing
For first time rabbit owner once you get home with your rabbit, put it in your cage and leave it for 48 house so that it can get used to its new surroundings before you start handling it, if you start to handle it too early you could end up with a very grumpy young rabbit from the start.
Rabbits can be kept indoors or outdoors, either way they need their own space in an appropriate cage or hutch. There are many purpose built cages and hutches available, alternatively you could build your own. It is recommended that you purchase the best quality you can afford, your rabbit will need it for 7--12 years. Make sure that the hutch is large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and high enough for your rabbit to stand upright. Dutch rabbits are generally comfortable in a 4' x 2' hutch. If kept outdoors, the hutch should have a dark enclosed area to provide your rabbit with a quiet space. The main living area should be large enough for your rabbit to stretch full out, and have wire mesh on the door. The hutch should be at least 6'; off the floor to provide adequate ventilation. In the winter you can move your rabbits indoors or into a shed. They are also quite happy remaining out of doors, providing extra protection such as an old blanket draped over the front of the hutch at night in very cold weather. Remember rabbits need good ventilation, you can not therefore leave the cover down permanently otherwise your rabbit will succumb to chest infections from the damp, ammonia or overheating, and rabbits die from all of these.
Rabbits are naturally very clean animals and will only defecate and urinate in one area.
Bedding
Hay, straw and wood chips all make suitable bedding for rabbits. It is down to personal choice which you use, however, research has shown that rabbits will choose straw rather than wood chip or wire bottomed cages. All bedding should be renewed at least once a week, and the hutch should be washed, scrubbed and disinfected several times per year.
Rabbits can live out doors quite happily at minus 20c or below, all they need is plenty of bedding and a 4 inch layer of shavings
Exercise
Rabbits need regular stimulation and exercise in a safe environment. This can be in a purpose made rabbit run or simply by bringing your rabbit indoors and letting it play in your living room. Rabbits that are playing outside of their hutches, either in a run or indoors, should be supervised at all times and their play area must be 'rabbit proofed' by removing any hazards. Young rabbits will enjoy exercise, but be careful not to over do it, particularly if you are still in the 'getting to know each other' period.
Rabbits are sociable creatures and enjoy the company of humans, dogs, cats and other rabbits if carefully introduced. It is generally suggested that each rabbit has its own hutch (particularly if you intend to show it) as rabbits are like children and prefer not to share 'bedrooms'. They can, however, socialise together in common space, such as rabbit runs, and will like being able to see and hear another rabbit when they are in their own hutches. 2 bucks must never be put together even in a run if they have not been castrated (they will fight).
Rabbits need to be occupied and they love playing with toys. This can include manufactured toys for human babies, birds, cats, dogs, hamsters etc. But rabbits will equally get hours of enjoyment from some very cheap, readily available items in the household, blocks of wood, planks, plastic flower pots.
Rabbits can get exercise by taking them out on a harness and lead, but the problem with this is that rabbits can pick up diseases and fleas left on the grass by other rabbits, if their vaccinations are up to date they should not get any of the diseases but they will still pick up fleas.
Rabbits left to run around the home while the householder is out will chew wires, electric leads and furniture, these pets should be put in a pen or hutch while the householders are not at home.
Health
It is recommend that you get your rabbit covered by Pet Insurance as veterinary fees can mount up. Never leave a rabbit in the sole care of a child. As an adult you will have to assume sole responsibility for the health and welfare of your child's rabbit.
To prevent territorial behaviour of both bucks (males) and does (females), it is suggested that pet rabbits are neutered, if they are not neutered then it should be one rabbit per cage. I don't see altering as cruel when the kits may be dead in a year anyway; either through being ';released'; into the wild'; or being slaughtered in a shelter when the owners have got bored of them.
Never put intact cavies / guinea-pigs in with intact rabbits as they will both sexually abuse each other, cavies / guinea- pigs should be housed with others of the same species. Males can be neutered at around 3-4 months, and does at 6 months. Females over 2-3 years old that are not being regularly bred from are at high risk of developing uterine cancer unless neutered.
Rabbits have little ability to regulate their body temperature and die very easily from heat stroke. Ensure adequate shade is provided at all times. Handle your rabbit daily, and it will generally enjoy your company. Never pick a rabbit up by its ears, and always support your rabbits back and hind quarters when handling.
Rabbits can easily experience spinal injuries, nails need clipping every 6-8 weeks and teeth should be checked weekly to ensure they are correctly aligned and they moult 2-4 times a year, only one of these will be heavy (usually late Spring/early Summer).
Seek veterinary advice if your rabbit develops discharges from the eye, nose or mouth, has scabs inside its ears, is passing diarrhoea or mucous, or stops eating and/or drinking. Any ill rabbit must always be given drinking water in a bowl. Water bottles are a clean, hygienic way of providing water if you rabbit is fit and well, but ill rabbits often become listless and will be unlikely to be bothered to lift their heads up to the spout of a bottle and will dehydrate and die very quickly.
If at all worried about your rabbit seek Veterinary Advice as sick or injured rabbits die very quickly
Healthy rabbits kept in clean conditions should not need bathing, if you think your rabbit needs a bath, first sort out why you think so and what you have done wrong in the first place.
Rabbit teeth, some rabbits have an over bight or an under bight which means that the teeth don't wear down properly, you have a choice here 1] Get your vet to pull the two front teeth out, 2] Get your vet to cut or file the two front teeth down, 3] You cut or file the teeth down. I prefer to do this job myself and cut the rabbits teeth, but I have never had to cut the teeth of any of the rabbits that I have bred. The name for this problem is malocclusion! Rabbits do far far better on a poor quality hay as they will chew this then excrete a pellet which they will eat so as to get more value out of the poor quality hay. This will also give them a more natural exercises to do and keep them occupied for longer. Trimming Nails Sit down and lay your rabbit on its back that way you can get to all 4 feet put your thumb on the sole of the foot with your fingers around the back of the foot and press your thumb down to show the nails take 1/3 rd of the nail off
A rabbits nose should be dry when it is in good health, if the nose is wet seek advice from your vet.
Breeding
Avoid breeding rabbits that have genetic defects and anything that is not found in the wild population such as long fur, extra short fur, drop down ears or satin fur can be classed as a genetic defect. Long hared rabbits such as Angora's, Cashmeres and Lionheads need a lot more grooming than short hair or normal coated rabbits do
Females will come into heat when a male is around, they don't go through cycles like most other creatures although they can mate anytime in any month and produce a litter, in theory they can produce a litter every month.
Gestation 30 to 32 days, litter size 3 to 8, eyes open 10 to 12 days, weaning are 6 to 8 weeks When the litter arrives don't expect every kit in the litter to be the same size, like multiple human births each kit will be different size and weight. Male Rabbit-BUCK (Sire) Female Rabbit-Doe (Dam) Young rabbit- Kit (offspring)
All rabbits should have their first litter before they reach 12 months old, if this is left until latter complications can set in and 95% of all older female pet rabbits die having their first litter.
Males can father a litter anytime from 6 months old up to 12 years old.
When breeding each doe should have her own cage to have her litter in, that way she will feel safe and in wild rabbits the pregnant doe leaves all the other rabbits and makes a stop (small burrow) where only she knows the litter can be found and it is not until the kits are ready to leave the stop that they return to the larger warren and all the other rabbits.
Pregnant rabbits can be handled until she starts pulling out her belly fur, at this point she should not be handled as the stress of the forthcoming litter and being handled may cause her to abort the litter.
If you intend breeding rabbits try to get hold of some pedigree stock, there are millions of cross bred rabbits about and a lot just end up being slaughtered, but with pedigree stock there is always some one out there who will buy them.
The doe must be put in with the buck who has to be housed separately and the matting only take a couple of seconds, then for the next three weeks she can be treated just as if she had not be mated only with a slight increase of food, by the 21 st day you should be starting to prepare for the birth by putting lots of hay or straw in the bedding area so that the doe can start to build her nest.
After the birth she will feed her kits at dawn and dusk, to feed them she will stand over the kits and the kits will come up to feed from the doe. Does don't menstruate, they ovulate after mating, a very efficient system.
Sexing rabbits try the following sites ....
www.debmark.com/rabbits/sexing. ... www.rabbitnetwork.org/articles/sexing.sh鈥?... www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=18%26amp;鈥?...
My experience
I have bred, exhibited and bred exhibition rabbits since the early 70's, all of my rabbits are healthy and well cared for, they live up to 12+ years, at the moment I have 26 rabbits.
Garden plants. There's no such thing as a rabbit-proof plant. However, there are some that usually get passed over for something more tasty. Achilles (Yarrow), Agastache (Hyssop), Aquilegia (Columbine), Astilbe, Digitalis (Foxglove), Eryngium (Sea Holly), Euphorbia (Spurge), Gaillardia (Blanket Flower), Geranium (Perennial Geraniums), Helleborus (Hellebore), Hyacinthus (Hyacinth), Iris, Kniphofia (Red-hot Poker), Lavandula (Lavender), Lupinus (Lupine), Narcissus (Daffodil), Nepeta (Cat mint), Origanum (Oregano), Papaver (Poppy), Penstemon (Beardtongue), Peony, Perovskia (Russian Sage), Polygonatum (Solomon's Seal), Salvia (Sage), Yucca. Toxic Plants found in the house around Christmas: Poinsettia, Philodendron, Diffenbachia, Taxus Bicata = Yew, Chrysanthemum
Plants found to be Poisonous to Rabbits
Aloe vera, Amaryllis, Anemone, Azalea, Buttercups, Bluebells, Bittersweet, Bryony, Caladium, Carnation, Clematis, Crown-of-Thorns, Cyclamen, Columbine, Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Deadly Nightshade, Delphinium, Dieffenbachia, Dracaena, Dog Mercury, Evergreens, Fig, Figwort, Fools Parsley, Poppies, Ragwort, Hemlock, Holly, Hydrangea, Impatiens, Juniper, Kingcup, Leyland Cypress, Laburnum, Lords And Ladies, Lily of the Valley, Lobelia, Marsh Marigold, Monkshood, Meadow Saffron, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Oleander, Primrose, Privet, Schefflera, Spurges, St Johns wort, Rhododendron, Rubber Plant, Tulips, Wisteria, Woody Nightshade
Showing
The Hobby of Breeding %26amp; Exhibiting Rabbits is called 'The Fancy'.
BRC member for over 30 years. www.thebrc.org
Since having a brain injury I had to cut down on pets from over the 200 I owned, I have only kept a few Ferrets and European polecat hybrids, Rabbits, Dogs and a breeding pair of Rosella Parakeets.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/intact-fer鈥?/a> http://www.geocities.com/houseferrets13u鈥?/a> .
Contact me if you need any more help. I help my vet when ever I can.
The American cottontail rabbit is an inferior species of rabbit and not the same specie as the rabbits that are kept all over the world as pets, the domestic rabbits originate from Spain
There are a few things you listed that aren't the best to regularly feed to your rabbit.
1. Avoid feeding the apple and carrot. They are both full of high energy and can cause your rabbit to get diarrhea or get fat, especially during the summer when rabbits don't need as much energy.
2. Avoid giving your rabbit fresh grass and dandelions. Dried grass is much better to give your rabbit than fresh grass. Fresh grass is high in energy and just like apples and the carrot, it could give your rabbit diarrhea or make it fat.
3. The dried grass and hay can be good, however be careful with drying grass as it can mold easily and the mold is not good for your rabbit. Watch how much you give and what kind you give. Never give over about a small handful. Watch about feeding wide leafed hays such as alfalfa and clover, especially in the summer. They are higher in energy. For example, alfalfa has about 19% Crude Protein. Rabbits really should get about 16-17% Crude protein. So alfalfa gives them too much energy and crude protein. If you are going to give them a hay to eat, the best hay for summer would be timothy hay. It has a better nutritional value than orchard grass hay and is lower in protein and higher in fiber than alfalfa or clover. Alfalfa or clover would be more appropriate for winter or when it is cold.
4. I'm not sure about the brand of rabbit pellets you are using and how good it is. I have not heard of it before. Normally, you want to look for a couple things:
a.) Around 16% Crude Protein - wool breeds need more
- 14-15% Crude protein can be used for non-growing rabbits
- growing or milking rabbits need at least 16% protein
- rabbits need a higher energy diet in the winter
b.) No more than 3% Fat
c.) At least 17% Fiber
d.) Corn isn't near the top of the ingredient list
e.) Look for yucca extract - controls smell
Here are some good brands of feed I'd recommend:
1.) Heinold
2.) Purena
3.) Show Rite
4.) Kent
5.) Buckeye
6.) Nutritional
Avoid any rabbit pellets that say they have carrots in them. That is a sales ploy to rope in people that know very little about rabbits and rabbit nutrition. A feed like that normally isn't a good quality rabbit pellet ration.
Normally, I like to feed once a day in the evening. Rabbits normally eat at night or in the very early morning by nature. Feeding once a day makes it easier to notice changes in the amount your rabbit is eating. The amount difference may be very little and unnoticeable if you feed twice a day, whereas feeding once a day that difference is doubled and becomes more easily evident. A difference in the amount your rabbit eats can be a sign of stress or signal sickness in your rabbit. Litters I normally feed twice a day since they eat so much as far as pellets and since it is so important that they get the food that they need to grow properly for the early stages of their development.
I've been raising and showing rabbits for 25 years and studied animal nutrition at Purdue University. I'm currently working on writing a book on rabbits, so I've also been doing a lot of research on rabbit nutrition lately in addition to what I already know on the subject.
Sounds like you are headed in the right direction.
Here are the guidelines suggested by the House Rabbit Society:
What quantities of food should I feed babies and ';teenagers';?
Birth to 3 weeks--mother's milk
3 to 4 weeks--mother's milk, nibbles of alfalfa and pellets
4 to 7 weeks--mother's milk, access to alfalfa and pellets
7 weeks to 7 months--unlimited pellets, unlimited hay (plus see 12 weeks below)
12 weeks--introduce vegetables (one at a time, quantities under 1/2 oz.)
What quantities of food should I feed young adults? (7 months to 1 year)
introduce timothy hay, grass hay, and oat hays, decrease alfalfa
decrease pellets to 1/2 cup per 6 lbs. body weight
increase daily vegetables gradually
fruit daily ration no more than 1 oz. to 2 oz. per 6 lbs. body weight (because of calories)
What quantities of food should I feed mature adults? (1 to 5 years)
Unlimited timothy, grass hay, oat hay, straw
1/4 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lbs. body weight (depending on metabolism and/or proportionate to veggies)
Minimum 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs. body weight
fruit daily ration no more than 2 oz. (2 TBL) per 6 lbs. body weight.
What quantities of food should I feed senior rabbits? (Over 6 years)
If sufficient weight is maintained, continue adult diet
Frail, older rabbits may need unrestricted pellets to keep weight up. Alfalfa can be given to underweight rabbits, only if calcium levels are normal. Annual blood workups are highly recommended for geriatric rabbits.
If I feed fewer pellets, how do I compensate?
When you feed a lower quantity of pellets, you must replace the nutritional value without the calories, which is done by increasing the vegetables. Also, a variety of hay and straw must be encouraged all day long, we do this by offering fresh hay a couple of times a day.
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/diet.鈥?/a>
And here is their suggested list of veggies:
Select at least three kinds of vegetables daily. A variety is necessary in order to obtain the necessary nutrients, with one each day that contains Vitamin A, indicated by an *. Add one vegetable to the diet at a time. Eliminate if it causes soft stools or diarrhea.
Alfalfa, radish %26amp; clover sprouts
Basil
Beet greens (tops)*
Bok choy
Broccoli (mostly leaves/stems)*
Brussels sprouts
Carrot %26amp; carrot tops*
Celery
Cilantro
Clover
Collard greens*
Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides)*
Endive*
Escarole
Green peppers
Kale (!)*
Mint
Mustard greens*
Parsley*
Pea pods (the flat edible kind)*
Peppermint leaves
Raddichio
Radish tops
Raspberry leaves
Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light colored leaf)*
Spinach (!)*
Watercress*
Wheat grass
(!)=Use sparingly. High in either oxalates or goitrogens and may be toxic in accumulated quantities over a period of time
http://www.rabbit.org/care/veggies.html
Sounds great. Just measure out the pellets for the appropriate amount for your size rabbit to make sure she's not overeating. The pellets don't look like much, but add water and they expand greatly.
By dried grass, I'm guessing you mean hay. Good. Keep the sweet treats (carrots, apple) as just that - occasional treats.
It is best to keep your rabbit lean, not chubby. He should be able to finish off his pellets in about 1 hour. There are different ways to do it. It's like feeding a child. Everyone has their own theories but should give the same, healthy basics. The pellets are just that.
I feed pellets only once (at night), in the morning I give treats, some greens (only to 4 month olds or older) and hay, and clean water all day long. I give them toys to keep them busy while I'm not with them. A bored rabbit may tend to overeat.
Enjoy your rabbit! :)
That is a great diet. Make sure that your pellets are timothy based instead of alfalfa, or other fillers like corn or soybeans. Also it needs to be around 16% protein and 18% fiber. I feed Kaytee Timothy Complete. Make sure the hay you are feeding is timothy too, find the greenest looking bag to buy. Alfalfa hay is good as a treat. Fruits and veggies are very good but make sure they are good for your rabbit first. Make sure you are feeding the right amount of pellets. 1/2 cup per 6 lbs. Always have fresh water available. check out the links at the bottom.
http://www.sandiegorabbits.org/diet/grap鈥?/a> - Rabbit Food Pyramid
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/diet.鈥?/a> - Basic Feeding
http://www.kaytee.com/products/search/?p鈥?/a> - Kaytee Timothy Complete
http://www.rabbit.org/care/veggies.html - Good veggies
http://www.rabbit.org/care/fruits.html - Good Fruits
http://www.adoptarabbit.com/articles/tox鈥?/a> - toxic stuff
http://www.rabbit.org/journal/3-3/digest鈥?/a> - Rabbit Digestion
http://www.rabbit.org/fun/biscuts.html - Home made bunny treat
It sounds like you are giving your rabbit the right foods, but you don't indicate the amount. Be sure the pellets are plain with no seeds, nuts, dried fruit or corn. Pellets should have around 14-15% protein, less than 1% calcium and ideally be in the 25% range for fiber. Some sites suggest about 1/4 - 1/3 c for a 5 lb rabbit.
Grass hay should be available at all times. I'm careful with fresh grass as clippings can ferment and not be good at all. Plus grass and dandelions from the yard could have been treated with pesticides. Greens can be fed daily as long as your bunny tolerates them - each serving about 1 - 2 cups is fine.
Treats like apple or carrot should be very limited - not more than 1 oz/day and less than that is just fine. You want to be sure that greens, treats, and pellets don't fill your rabbit up so he doesn't eat his hay.
Here are some good links to diet including how much to feed your bunny:
http://homepage.mac.com/mattocks/morfz/r鈥?/a>
http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/GI_diseases鈥?/a>
That sounds like a great diet to me! Keep up the good work.
Sounds great!
i feed them either an apple or a carrot each day, grass, alfalfa and hay.
i'm not a fan of pellets, neither are my rabbits.
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